Sunday, December 21, 2008

60 Reasons to Miss Paris


1. Pâté
2. Orangina
3. Nutella
crèpes on the street
4. 40 centime coffee machines

5. Madeleine cookies
6. "formule fixe" dinners
7. Notre Dame de Paris
8. Haussmannian architecture
9. Boulevards

10. 80 centime baguettes
11. 1 euro croissants
12. 400 types of government cheeses
13. fast/awesome metro
14. walkable distances
15. bathroom "rooms" rather than stalls (thus, no awkward noises)
16. fresh fruit stands

17. Concorde metro stop
18. Jardin de Tuileries in the summer/fall
19. Assemblée Nationale metro stop
20. Musée d'Orsay
21. Centre Pompidou
22. Movie theatres that play old movies
23. Graffiti in the Latin Quarter
24. Hookah in the bastille 25. Th
é à la menthe
26. Beaujolais wine for 2 euro 27. The lack of a drinking age

28. "General Alimentation" stores that are open late
29. Cote d'Or chocolates with hazelnuts
30. Parisian fashion
31. Christmas lights on the Champs-Elysees

32. Social Club
33. Keffiyehs
34. Accordion street/subway music
35. Parisian politesse
36. Gridlined notebooks

37. The taste of European coke (sugar instead of corn syrup!)
38. Tips/taxes included in the price of everything
39. Calm "European" lifestyle (35 hrs of work a week max)
40. Proximity to and ability to travel at will
41. The night bus, which goes
EVERYwhere if you can figure it out
42. Swigging alcohol on the street with the boys
43. The Reid Hall campus, and Yoki the black cat

44. Da boys: Nate/Will/Jon/Sam
45. Hippo Tuesdays with Karen and Vanessa
46. The incredible collection of books in my homestay
47. The Eiffel Tower (of course)
48. Affiches (posters) of all plays showing in the metro stops
49. I.M.Pei's Louvre pyramids
50. Millions of art exhibits!

51. Concerts ALL THE TIME

52. Ability to download music with ease
53. Free "continental" breakfast every day

54. The "moustache poetique" stickers on subway posters
55. Foie gras, or at least the ability to get it (sigh, Chicago...)
56. Livres de Poche

57. Old ladies in berets
58. The Palais de Tokyo

59. My wonderful Paris in Context class
60. Seeing the Sacre Coeur every time I walk up
Pigalle

Last Weekend in Paris

FRIDAY

a.k.a. "Day of Death"

Up early to explore the catacombs again with Steph, one of my favorite places in Paris to this day. 7 million bodies were "arranged" in the catacombs. A morbid experience, but also fascinating. Besides, where else are you going to see so many skulls and bones??


After the catacombs, we went to two famous Parisian cemeteries: Cimitiere Montparnasse, and Cimitiere Pere-Lachaise, of which the latter is one of the largest and most famous cemeteries in the world. Walking around cemeteries, however, prooved a tiring and largely annoying experience, since nothing was numbered and we didn't have a particularly useful map. Still definitely worth it, though. In Montparnasse we saw the graves of Charles Baudelaire and Jean-Paul Satre and Simone de Beauvoir (they are buried together).

I found this clever little note left on Satre/de Beauvoir's grave(s) to be particularly intriguing:


It was my first time at Pere Lachaise, and I was fascinated. GORGEOUS cemetary, but extremely large and confusing. I saw the infamous grave of Oscar Wilde, with its lipstick-covered tombstone! And yes, you might say that I left a mark of my own...



Well, at least I can now die knowing ONE life goal was accomplished!

We also saw Edith Piaf's grave! Very exciting. I absolutely love her life story, and not only because I had to present on her for French class/listen to her songs about 1,000,000 times. For those less familiar with Edith Piaf's songs, download/youtube the following: La Vie en Rose (duh), Padam Padam, Non Je Ne Regrette Rien.


We also saw Moliere's grave and Jim Morrison's, both of which were a bit disappointing. Especially Jim Morrison's... not even a bust! Sad, just sad. And after all those angsty teenage years listening to the Doors!

Friday we also went to le Louvre for the last time, where we did a quick round of "best of" le Louvre: Renaissance and later years. I'll spare you pictures of the Mona Lisa, especially since, to be perfectly honest, le Louvre was one of my least favorite museums in Paris. Hold the rotten tomatoes, kids: I just like smaller museums.

Then we grabbed some delicious Lebanese food near the Pompidou (mmm... schwarma...) and called it a night, exhausted from walking so many miles of catacomb, cemetery, and museum. Oof!


SATURDAY

I took Steph to the famous flea market, where she bought a beret! This isn't the beret itself, but it looks pretty similar, and I like the picture:


After several hours of bargaining and scoping around, we trudged back to Montmartre, where we had our "Bohemian Day". We climbed the hill from Abbesses and FINALLY I got a chance to go to the Espace Dali! I was SO EXCITED. And it was in fact a fantastic museum, just small enough to be manageable, with plenty of amazing works. My favorites were his drawings; I might like them even better than his paintings! His Old Testament illustrations were my favorites. Here are a few from the "Don Quichotte" series, and my favorite from the Old Testament:


Next, exploring Montmartre and the Sacre Coeur again. We followed the Montmartre day with lunch/dinner at Cafe des Deux Moulins, where I made the unfortunate mistake of ordering Carpaccio de Boeuf when I was in a mood for a filet, having had a craving for hamburger for the past, oh, 4 months. Well, all in due time, I suppose.

Afterwards, the Pompidou for the last time! The Pompidou is one of my favorite places in Paris. As beautiful and much larger than the MoMA, with an amazing collection. And the architecture! I love it. Here is my favorite sculpture in the MoMA, which reminds me so much of Truffaut's Jules et Jim, which all of you should see:


After that, we were quite pooped, so we headed back for a nap and watching Wall-E on my PC (only the cutest movie in existence), where I took a nap to refresh for one of my favorite experiences of all of Paris: COEN BROTHERS MOVIE NIGHT AT LE CHAMPO! Le Champo is a movie theatre dedicated (found? maybe?) by Jacques Tati (the Charlie Chaplin of France, who directed and starred comedies like the adorable Mon Oncle of 1958, a veritable auteur of his time). So somehow Steph and I made it through three Coen Brothers movies and a croissant breakfast in the morning, with a total of about 1 hour of sleep all night. We saw Fargo, O Brother Where Art Thou (HILARIOUS movie-- my first time seeing it!), and The Big Lebowski (of course). Now I have a hankering for white russians.

And thus, we arrive at SUNDAY, which I am currently spending (slowly) packing and gathering my thoughts. Au revoir, Paris! You have not seen the last of me.

Friday, December 19, 2008

Sheer Happiness

FINALS ARE OVER!

And Steph is here!

And I have 3 days left, which I refuse to waste. Tomorrow I shall explore numerous cemeteries and see skulls. Saturday I will explore all that Montmartre has to offer, and will finish the night by a Coen Brothers movie marathon at Le Champo, breakfast included, after which I will finally retire, sleeplessly, to pack for the next day's flight.

So I am happy.

I am optimistic about grades, I am going to keep in contact with Reid Hall buddies, and all is well with the world.

I will, however, quite miss my Paris in Context class. Come on, it's a class where you explore Contemporary Art museums in Paris for free! Freaking fantastic is what that was.

Today was the Reid Hall cocktail party, which was of course 60 or so people lumped into the room, tired after finals, and swigging free glasses of wine like nobody's business. And cheese. And desserts. I left almost as full as I was on Thanksgiving. The "cocktail" (aka cheap white and red wine) party was followed by walking to the Notre Dame and spending over an hour talking to a stranger in Shakespeare & Co., an infamous all English-language bookstore in the Latin Quarter. Gotta love the brits. Night was concluded by hookah, per usual (could this be my last hookah night of Paris? Oh, sadness!).

Oh! And I forgot: last week I dined at la Coupole, which used to be frequented by Picasso and Hemmingway, among numerous others. Mmm, foie gras + some sort of beef + mousse. A bit on the pricey side, but at least I could tell people I dined at a veritable french restaurant in Montparnasse rather than just baguettes and cheese. Some pictures:



The ceiling also received some attention from the French press because it hired 4 famous contemporary artists to do their own rendition on a quarter of it:


Pretty beautiful, I think.

And, of course, there was the politically incorrect probably-not-even-really-Indian man serving curry:


That's him with my friend Peggy. Gotta love it. I didn't even ask him for a picture. He saw my camera and asked me for one. Ah, France.

Tuesday, December 16, 2008

Finals = DEATH

Well, a week has gone by and relatively nothing has happened. I spent all weekend procrastinating for my Sorbonne final/"devoir sur table"/5-hr long abyss of torturous DEATH. Thankfully all that is done now, and I have "only" two finals left, neither of which I am too worried about: my film analysis exam tomorrow (eep), and a Paris museums final exam on Thursday. That class has honestly become one of my favorites of my entire Columbia undergraduate career. Probably a 2nd to Ross Hamilton's Making of the Modern Self, currently safe in 1st. Lit Hum semester 2 was pretty rad as well thanks to Lis Ladenson, so I'd keep that at no. 3. Then again, Drawing II was probably the most fun I've had in my life, and there was also Beginning Poetry, and then again the East Asian Texts Colloquium was also fantastic... gah! I have taken too many fantastic classes to choose! (Thanks, Columbia?)

At this time next week, I will be in lovely Chicagoland, nursing one awful case of jet lag and hopefully with a tummy full of bacon cheeseburger and fries. With a pop in hand. And Arrested Development on my computer (Hulu and Netflix, I have missed you so...)

I am however quite distraught to be leaving so soon. I'm currently in the midst of editing my "things I will miss about Paris" list (coming soon on a blog near you!). Trust me, it's long. Very long. Too long. I purposely got a flight out the 22nd rather than the 18th, when finals are over, to give myself a few days of lovely Parisian splendor sans school-related panic attacks. Also, STEPH IS COMING TO VISIT FROM CAMBRIDGE! So exciteeeddd. Who else to share Dali museums and creepy Oscar Wilde tombstones with? (Pere Lachaise pictures to come soon, promise!)

Is it that obvious that I've been procrastinating for studying by reading one-too-many webcomics? Am I really always this hyperactive? Perhaps it's all the earl grey tea? Well, I'll update again soon, after this whole finals craze is over and done with and I can do my final *sniff* Parisian things, like going on the ferris wheel at the Tuilieries.

Last bit of news: Monica and I bought leather jackets! We look so totally voyou (french for punk/thug/hoodlum). Like one graffiti artist named Miss Tic drew/stenciled: je suis la voyelle du mot voyou. Indeed, indeed. To answer the inevitable questions, yes it was expensive. Yes, I bargained. *sigh* Yes, and I Jew'd it up quite nicely, thanks for asking.



Saturday, December 6, 2008

Minnelli's An American in Paris

Continuing the trend of useless and curt blog entries:

I had to watch "An American in Paris" multiple times for my french/american cinema paper (that I am currently procrastinating for by writing in this), and found a few quotes that apply extremely well to my time here in Paris, and that probably say more about my experience than I ever could.

Jerry Mulligan: She's one of those third year girls who gripe my liver...You know, American college kids. They come over here to take their third year and lap up a little culture...They're officious and dull. They're always making profound observations they've overheard.

(haha, very true)

Adam Cook: It's not a pretty face, I grant you, but underneath its flabby exterior is an enormous lack of character.

(i just really love this quote)

Lise Bouvier: Maybe Paris has a way of making people forget.
Jerry Mulligan: Paris? No. Not this city. It's too real and too beautiful to ever let you forget anything. It reaches in and opens you wide, and you stay that way. I know. I came to Paris to study and to paint because Utrillo did, and Lautrec did, and Roualt did. I loved what they created, and I thought something would happen to me, too. Well, it happened all right. Now what have I got left? Paris. Maybe that's enough for some but it isn't for me anymore because the more beautiful everything is, the more it will hurt without you.

(This one in particular reached me to the core)


In other recent developments, I am in love with Gene Kelly, and refuse to ever date a boy again who isn't as equally charming, hilarious, and working class. Check out that baseball cap. Freaking adorable is what he is.


Friday, December 5, 2008

Reflections

It may just be because it is nearly 3 in the morning Paris-time,
And you will probably never see or hear me utter these words again,
And after I write them I will probably immediately regret it,
But I might
just might
have been having a little too many adventures in Paris.
And elsewhere.

...

That is all.

Monday, December 1, 2008

London Calling

Lots of events this weekend. I have, by the way, noticed that my posts have been continuously decreasing month per month, which is actually quite understandable given the steadily increasing workload. Rule of inverse proportions!

To begin, Thursday: Thanksgiving Dinner at Reid Hall! I was extremely excited. I love Thanksgiving, probably because my parents have never had a real one. Well, there was this one time where I was 5, but a family dinner party happened to coincide with it, and there was a Turkey involved. The prior 2 Thanksgivings I had spent in Central Jersey with Ellie's family, which proved to be life-altering in various ways (can I be any more vague?). That, and delicious. Freaking delicious. I was looking forward to the full bird presentation, complete with cornbread and stuffing. However, we began the meal with pumpkin pie (I know, right?), continued to mashed potatoes/gravy/turkey (SANS STUFFING, and already on the plate. Silly French restaurants who don't understand American culture), and finished with no less than 7 pieces of various types of pie (an estimate, as I ended up sneaking a lot of pieces onto Nate's friend Eric's plate).

One of few pictures of the party (the boy on the left is my homestay brother J.D., the boy with the blazer and hilarious expression is my friend Will)


In fact, Thanksgiving was a tad disappointing. I expected that Thanksgiving with all of the people I liked from the program (every single person at the dinner was a friend of mine! So happy!), it would be extraordinarily fun. It was fine, but... just fine. Our homestays were late, and we couldn't figure out what language we were supposed to speak, as half of the people there spoke either only English or only French.

Oh, well. At least we got pie out of the deal, as we each had to bring one (and thus die of wonderful sugar overdose!)

Then, four hours of sleep, and taking the Eurostar to LONDON!

Friday: arrive overwhelmingly sleepy and take an embarrassingly long time trying to find the hostel, which was, hilariously, located on "Moscow Street" next to an enormous Russian Orthodox Church. How did I know?? Then taking the tube. I LOVE the tube. Mostly for the hilarious automated British accents saying "Mind the gap, please." It was such a relief to hear English after over three months of French!

Then I met Melissa, Monica, and Caroline in a restaurant/coffeeshop near Westminster Abbey, which was right near Big Ben and Parliament. Photos:




Drinkin' some tea:
Melissa said this picture gave her "character". Hmmm... I was indeed nice and did not upload it onto Facebook. Now it is the blog, for all the world to see! I am such a good friend.

After tea, we went to Westminster Abbey, which was by far the best time I had all weekend, JUST because of the Poet's Corner. People buried at the Poet's Corner who you might have heard of: Gerard Manley Hopkins, Alfred Lord Tennyson, Robert Browning, Lewis Carroll (Charles Henry Dodgson), W.H Auden, Henry James, George Eliot, Jane Austen, the Bronte sisters (Emily, Charlotte, Anne), Matthew Arnold, William Shakespeare, William Wordsworth, Charles Darwin (not a poet but cool nonetheless), Charles Dickens. I will spare you the illegal photos within Westminster Abbey, and include a photo of the gorgeous gothic Abbey itself:


We spent the entire day trying to get a good picture of ourselves in the red phone booths. Alas! No luck to be found. Next we ate at a pub near Westminster (fish and chips = yummy! I missed greasy food. I was less into malt vinegar in lieu of ketchup, however. Sorry Brits, I just love my fries + ketchup). Continuing, we did a bit of shopping on Oxford Street, especially at Primark, a cross between the cheapness of Target with the clothing of TJ Maxx and the craziness of Sam's Club on a Sunday. Gotta love it.

I was exhausted and cold (it had been raining all day), so I went back to the hostel for a quick catnap while the rest of them had a Jack the Ripper tour. Afterwards I ended up meeting up with Sonia, my new friend, who I met through my friend Paulina at Reid Hall. She was the girl I'm hugging in the photograph that ended up in Metro!

London was actually surprisingly stressful-- I had a choice of no less than 4 groups of people I could possible hang out with, and only 1 day to do it all! I could have also seen Julia Gonzalez, who goes to Columbia, or Youcef Draia, another new friend made through Vanessa at Reid Hall (who recently graduated from Columbia). Alas, after multiple miscommunication I met Sonia and two of her friends at the Volunteer, a really amazing pub. Needless to say, I had an absolute blast hanging out with Sonia. Too bad she's staying for the year in London! I would've loved to visit her in Sarah Lawrence.

I would just like to clarify that this is APPLE CIDER, and not beer. 1. It's not carbonated, clearly, and 2. It looks and tastes like apple juice! Most wonderful drink EVER.

Next we took the bus (unfortunately not one of the double-decker ones) to Hyde Park, where we ran around being idiots. How fortuitous, as running around being a complete idiot is in fact one of my favorite activities.


Blake and his friend Julia were absolutely fantastic, too. What a great night! Unfortunately I ended up taking a taxi back, as I missed the last metro, unfortunately. But what a great time!

Saturday: Hurried to Victoria Station, where I had to take the bus to Cambridge, as I was visiting Steph that day, who is doing the OxBridge Columbia program. I arrive breathless at Victoria, stressed and confused, and realized that I hadn't changed the clock on my phone and indeed woke up an hour earlier than needed. Poo. For some reason these things just keep happening. I blame it on being an only child. There's nobody to reprimand you for being stupid!

I arrive in Cambridge a little after noon, and Steph gives me a wonderful walking tour. Cambridge University is amazingly beautiful. Such architecture! And so EPIC! The only setback was the cold. I had a massive throat-ache the next day. Brrr! There was tons of fog, which was actually quite beautiful. Steph and I decided it was right out of a Wordsworth poem (how funny that I had just seen his tomb at Westminster Abbey the day before!).



I didn't modify the pictures at all. It really looks like that.

We went to eat at a pub, which was absolutely delicious, and met up with Stephanie's friend Rui (pronounced "Rey"), who also goes/went to Columbia, and also studies both English and French. A nice meal, then scouting a flea market, where I of course bought another cheap pair of bizarre earrings. Next, more touristy activities, and then hanging out in Steph's dorm with a bunch of Brits. Interesting people, Brits. Hilarious accents, diverse backgrounds, knowledge of interesting buzzwords like "jumper" instead of sweater. Huh.

A nice night, again. We ended up hanging around listening to music and eating our weight's worth in crumpets with peanut butter, delicious scones with cream and jam, and apple pies. So unhealthy, but so worth it!

Next day, hectic transportation, and arriving in Paris early evening, greeted by freezing temperatures and rain. I missed you, too, Paris, I missed you, too.

I LOVE THE U.K.! 2 days are not nearly enough. Maybe London over the summer, if my bank account doesn't run out (which it actually is)? On verra, on verra.